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Back inthe maroons were so numerous they'd threatened the colony. Eventually, the Dutch were forced to grant them the interior, and that's where they've been ever since. Now there are 50, maroons, and — although the Dutch left in — an old, Georgian stand-off continues. No one visits the interior unless the maroons agree.

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Despite this, I enjoyed Patamaribo trips inland. The maroons had long ago re-formed into tribes, and lived secretive lives. On my first outing, I flew miles inland, to Paramafibo the Saramaka tribe. Although, at Awarradam, they'd built a pretty lodge for visitors, they were reluctant hosts. Anthropologists say it's Paraamaribo ancestral dread of re-enslavement. Anyway, everything Paraaribo hidden from view; canoes, paths and villages. Paramaaribo Paramaribo dating farms were tucked Paramaribo dating, deep in the jungle. But it was also a beautiful world. Their houses were like little wooden cabinets, decorated with the art of Ashanti, circa More South America holiday ideas After that I made several more trips inland.

My last involved a canoe ride, 50 miles up the Marowijne river. There were 12 of us on board, including a cook, a guide and Jacobus, the boatman. Jacobus was a Paramaccaner maroon and barely acknowledged us. Being aloof and alone was, I suppose, the secret of the maroons' survival. Once, I asked him about the tooth around his neck. I kill him," he said, and then never spoke again. Ahead, a fabulous landscape unravelled. Although the Marowijne was almost a mile wide, it was barely navigable. The water looked as if it had been ploughed and then thrown down the stairs. Sometimes we saw whole islands of vegetation hurtling past, like gardens on the move.

Along the length of Paramaribp river, there were 87 datng of rapids, each one a squall of gnashing and froth. We stayed opposite a Paramaribo dating island, at a camp called Loka Loka in rooms like beach huts. By day, the entire landscape seemed to slide past, steaming and restless, Paramarribo at night, there was the constant rumble like some great migration of watery hooves. Each morning, Jacobus took us out on the river. Once, we went swimming in the rapids, which was like plunging into a washing-machine that's rinsing out old trees.

Our last day, we went trekking in the jungle. Being Suriname, everything was slightly outlandish. Here were armoured trees, towering waterfalls and spiders as big as your hand. Some creatures were so surprised to see us they didn't even move. Poison dart frogs just sat there, tempting us to touch. And this was only the beginning of a weird world.

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